HEADING EAST
After our less than magnificent stay at Goulding’s Lodge, but a wonderful time during the days in that beautiful part of our country, we headed south and east. We stopped in Canyon de Chelly, another place I had always wanted to see.
As in Monument Valley, we were fortunate that we not only did not have to fight the normal hordes of tourists, but we were totally alone. Below is a photo of the entire parking lot of a very popular lookout at the Canyon. The only other person there besides me is that Park Ranger that had started following me around at the Sunset Crater a few days earlier.
The green Lexus in the photo had been my car until I gave it to my Mom three years ago. She so loved her Sexy Lexie as she called it and for a woman of very modest means she loved having the only Lexus in Kingman.
You can read about it and see a great photo of Mom with the car when we shipped it to her here. She can no longer drive it and needed a boost in her bank balance so unknown to her, I bought my car back from her and my brother told her he sold it on Craig’s List. That is the reason that while I hate to drive, we were in the middle of this 3,000 mile drive across the country.
The sad things is that a couple of months ago I wouldn’t be able to write that here as she was one of my most faithful Blog readers but she is near the end and about two weeks ago she told my brother to take her keyboard and things away from her home as she would not be able to do it any more. I often wrote on this Blog just because I knew she was reading and that is so sad for me.
The photo below is overlooking Canyon de Chelly. Evidently in the Navajo Nation they are not bound by the same rules the rest of the country is as there was not a single railing or safety apparatus anywhere around. Just a sheer drop off.
Spectacular views of Canyon de Chelly
Note the abandoned village at the bottom from ten centuries ago.
A close up of another ancient village
The ruins of another thousand year old village in another part of the canyon. NOTE THE BASKETBALL GOAL IN THE BOTTOM OF THE PHOTO NEXT TO A SMALL HOME WHERE A FAMILY LIVES AND FARMS THE BOTTOM OF THE CANYON.
We passed through Gallup, New Mexico where I proudly represented Kingman, Arizona’s St. Mary’s School in the Regional Spelling Bee as a sixth grader and managed to get knocked out not by misspelling something like “extirpation” or “lucifugous” two of the many useless words I memorized and am still carrying around in my brain. Rather, I missed the word “pleasant” which I spelled with “ent” after spending hundreds if not thousands of hours memorizing and practicing 14 and 15 letter scientific terms and obscure and difficult words. It was not a pleasant experience.
We drove (actually, I drove) through Gallup rapidly so I would not become depressed about my poor showing at the Bee a hundred years ago.
We arrived in Albuquerque and stayed two nights.. I had two free nights at the Hyatt from some promotion and they expire on January 31st so I saw no reason to let them go to waste. Second, we think New Mexico has some of the best eating in the world and we were determined to pig out. We did.
We ate tamales, enchiladas, tacos and everything else, all done in the New Mexican style (smothered with red chili or green chili). We had cheese crisps for appetizers (which you don’t see in much of the country) and poured honey on the sopapillas that were served warm every meal.
On the one day we had free of driving we drove (of course) along The Turquoise Trail from Albuquerque to Santa Fe and saw some interesting sights in towns like Madrid, Cerrillos and others
As we entered one town, we saw the sign below followed by the next two photos.
Here we have some typical New Mexico architecture along The Turquoise Trail. Doesn’t really look like a scenic drive, does it?
Here you will see the sprawling Kicking Ass Ranch. I think its ass has already been kicked.
From this piece of gorgeous scenery we drove north to Cerrillos which was one of the stranger places we’ve been in this country.
The first two photos are of the main store in town-a place that sells any possible thing that no one would ever need, including thousands of old bottles of all shapes and sizes. I did buy a wooden train whistle for Wes there though.
Finally, we took this lovely snapshot of the local Opera House where I’m sure Pavarotti will be performing in a few days. Yes, I know he is dead but so is this Opera House.
We ended up in Santa Fe, a city we seriously considered moving to a few years ago. We headed into the old town so we could eat at “Tia Sophia’s”. It may seem odd, but I had asked our son Gustavo, who lives in Copenhagen, for restaurant recommendations in Albuquerque and Santa Fe and he told us we must try this place.
Gustavo is in the Diplomatic Corps for the OSCE (Organization for Security and Cooperation of Europe) and one of the things he does is monitor the elections of various countries all over the world to certify that they are free and fair elections.
So every four years he comes to the US to monitor our Presidential elections and for the last two elections he was assigned to New Mexico and so he knows the restaurants well. Since he was just here to monitor the integrity of President Obama’s victory I asked him for “good eats” recommendations. He jokingly replied, carrying on with the election theme, “Oh, you are in the red and green state (referring to the chili put on all food here)” and immediately said we had to go to Santa Fe and eat at Tia Sophia’s.
Unfortunately we arrived right after they had closed for the afternoon so we put it on our list for next time and wandered around, ending up at a place called Café Pasqual’s that has been serving good food for almost 30 years and where we had a great meal and then we drove back to Albuquerque.
Cris had told us we should buy an audio book for this long drive so we found a Borders when we were back in Albuquerque and bought an 8 hour book with the title "The Places in Between" by Rory Stewart.
It is about a Scottish guy that walked from one end of Afghanistan to the other, alone, while the current NATO war against the Taliban was raging. It was a very interesting book and I concluded the best thing we should do now in Afghanistan is to get out immediately. It is not possible to win a war in that country and the idea that we or anyone could bring any type of lasting peace or democracy there is a complete joke.
This is not like Iraq other than the religious in-fighting. The Iraqi’s were an educated and successful society that was modern and integrated into the world that had a brutal dictator in charge. Afghanistan is none of those things. No one is in charge nor has there been for centuries. The bulk of Afghanistan is made up of mud villages where nearly everyone is illiterate, the women have lived their lives never traveling more than a mile or two outside of their village, every man and boy carries a Kalishnikoff rifle, there is no electricity, no running water, no outhouses (everyone just walks out their front door and defecates) and the majority have no idea where or who the USA is or what the World Trade Center was. They do know they kicked the asses of the Russians and they either love or hate the Taliban and that is about the extent of their knowledge of the geopolitical world.
They are grouped into clans that have been fighting each other for hundreds of years and all they live for is revenge and the practice of Islam, which they worship fiercely.
We are out of our mind if we think we have even the slightest chance of winning this war. It is much more of a mess than Pakistan, which is a total disaster but there the people are educated and they are part of the modern world other than the ungovernable portions in the Northwest (which border Afghanistan no surprise).
This guy had completed walking across India, Nepal, Pakistan and Iran and this book was only about his journey across Afghanistan.
So, we bought the book and later that night went to Gustavo’s second recommendation, his favorite New Mexican restaurant which is the Church Street Cafe in the Old Town section of Albuquerque. We enjoyed the Margarita’s he recommended and had our last New Mexican meal for a while. It is in the Casa de Ruiz which is the oldest residence in Albuquerque.
The next day we started our long, long, long, long drive across the flattest land in the country from Albuquerque to Tulsa.
We left Albuquerque the next morning at 6am, tanked up on Starbuck’s for our long drive. About the only thing of interest we saw as we drove for 13 hours across the longest flat plain in our country (or so they claim and I believe) was in Groom, Texas and it was the largest free standing cross in America.
Also in Texas we came to the town of Shamrock, a town I always remember because that was the name of my dog when I was 11 years old. Given that it was a German Short Haired Pointer we probably should have named him Braunschweiger instead of Shamrock. It used to be a boom town and Route 66 went right through it.
In 1971 or 1972 Cathy and I drove Grover from Tulsa, Oklahoma to Kingman, Arizona to see my parents and we stayed one night at the Shamrock Inn in Shamrock, Texas so on this trip I decided to pull off the Interstate and see if it was still there.
This town is a great model for what is happening to small towns across America. It is falling apart. As we drove through the deserted streets, business after business had been closed. It was like a bomb hit the city. There is an article here about its deterioration and its population is now down to less than 2,000 people
But we did find the Shamrock Inn and it was, sort of, still in business.
The other interesting thing we saw was this old Conoco Service Station and café which was definitely a walk down memory lane.
We arrived in Tulsa at 730 to a freezing wind. We checked in and I went out and picked up a pizza and we ate it in the room as we had to get up early the next day. The only reason we had driven to Tulsa was to take a photo of the hospital where Grover was born and of the two houses we lived in when we were there so many years (decades) ago. Our total time in Tulsa was 13 hours and it was the first time Cathy had been there since we moved away 35 years ago.
The next morning, in a temperature of 19 degrees, we headed south for Lafayette, Louisiana, a mere 500 or so miles away
We arrived in Lafayette about 8pm and immediately asked where we could get a Fried Oyster Poor Boy and went to Chris’ Po-Boys and had dinner. The Hilton where we stayed was in high party mode as one of the first Balls of the Mardi Gras season was in process and the Krewe was throwing quite a party. The next morning we headed for New Orleans.
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