PWEASE PAPI! DON’T LEAVE! PWEASE!

Finn, who is having a little trouble pronouncing his L’s, was not happy when he learned that Papi had to leave. And Papi wasn’t happy either. In fact, probably no one in the apartment was happy with the possible exception of Lee who had been living with in-laws for the last 5 weeks. In his proper British style, he never said anything like “So, when are you blokes heading back”?.
I think my favorite time when I was in London with Finn, Andrea and Lee was feeding him. Even better than the
chorizo sandwich and Jamón frenzy that followed it, although it looks like I was trying to smile for the camera so much I was stuffing the bottle nearly up his nose.

So, lots of tears Wed morning when we left for Spain, but I will see him again in late May. In the meantime, I will have a week with Landon and Wes in Florida and another week with them in DC, and then several more days in early May for Landon’s 5th (how can that be?) birthday.


The photo above of Wes is ten months old but I have never posted it on my Blog and it is one of my favorites. Yes, I do have many more recent ones.
INTERESTING LONDON THINGS
1. The only thing that costs less than double what it does in the US is an extra shot in your Starbucks. It is 15 pence, or 30 cents US, nearly half of the 55 cents in the States.
2. It sounded a lot more romantic, continental and cosmopolitan one day when I decided to take the bus (the only choice) to go get a couple of Starbucks. I walked for five minutes to the stop, waited six minutes for the bus, rode it for another six, got off and got the coffees in a carrier, just missed the bus, waited 8 minutes for the next one, took it for six, walked for five and then sat down in the apartment to drink it. It didn’t feel the way it sounded when I decided to do it.
3. I would walk into the Village every day to pick up or drop off my laundry (20 minutes each way) and to buy a bottle of wine at Nicolas, a great wine chain from France. The guy I got to know was from Paris and was there to train the staff. He was great. One day I was trying to decide between two red burgundies and he asked me what we were having to eat. I said chicken. He got very excited and said “Non, Non, Non. Not zee Beaune. Eet weeel be too metalleek! Buy zee Santenay”.
4. I longed every single day for another chorizo sandwich and some Joselito.
5. We had a discussion with Lee one night about why we say schedule as if it is sKedule and the Brits say schedule like the sch in shoe. The four of us decided to think of another word that started with sche that was pronounced like shoe. Immediately Cathy, who I have said before in this Blog is the smartest person I know, said “Scheherazade”. We all just stared at her. I asked what it was. She said it was famous Persian Queen from many centuries ago. I was certain she was bullshitting us to I looked it up on Google. She was right. As I have said before, she is so smart it scares me.
6. Lunch at a casual place-4 burgers and 4 soft drinks. $90 dollars. Dinner at home of four individual size pizzas and nothing else. $94 dollars. The bus ride to and from the apartment (only 2 stops) to get Starbucks. $8 dollars if you do not have what is called an Oyster card. We won’t even go into what the dinner at an Indian restaurant or at a wonderful Italian restaurant cost.
7. They sell so many different flavor potato chips (which are called Crisps there) you would not believe it. Flavors like Barbecue Beef, Oriental Ribs or Shrimp and Cheese.
Now we are in Spain. We flew here Wednesday and drove to Toledo, the most beautiful city in all of Spain in terms of spectacular views of the city with its castles, Alcazars, and incredible Cathedral.

We arrived in Spain the day the Euro hit the all time high against the dollar. When the peseta converted to the Euro, we were here and it took 88 cents US to buy one Euro. Now it takes $1.50, almost double. But compared to London, it feels dirt cheap.
On Thursday, we decided to go to the little town of Consuegra, which means “with Mother-in-law” in honor of Lee. Just kidding. It does mean that but we went there because it is famous for its “Molinos”, the famous windmills of La Mancha and Don Quixote. We got some wonderful photos.






After going to ConSuegra, we were just driving around the countryside and ended up in a town called Mora (which means blackberry). We got out and wandered around and saw a cafeteria and bar and decided to have lunch there. We went in and ordered from the bar and sat at an old table. On the wall was a 4 foot by 5 foot dusty black and white photo of a young kid, in a white waiter’s coat, pouring a glass of wine at the bar. Cathy noticed that the old man that had taken my order looked like the kid so I went up and asked him and this was so cool because he told me the following story.
In the early 1960’s, Spain was in extreme poverty under the brutal power of Franco. He was just an 11 year old living on the street. The owner of the bar let him clean tables and sweep the floors for a few pesetas and some food to eat and he slept in the kitchen on the floor. One day, they let him put on this white coat and took this photo that now hangs behind the bar. He then had to take off the coat and go back to sweeping the floors.
You could not work unless you were 14 so they had some signals to notify him whenever the police came around and he would hide.
He continued working there for over 30 years as the bartender. In 1994, the owners said that he had been such a loyal employee, for so many years, that they would give him the business. They still own the building and the real estate but the actual business of the bar and restaurant has been his since 1994. He was very proud of how hard he had worked and his reward for doing that. He was a gentle and gracious man who loved the fact that I wanted to know about his story. It made for a very special experience for us.
After lunch we wandered around the back roads some more and discovered a little town (Almonacid de Toledo) with this huge, somewhat still preserved castle at the top of the hill. We tried everyway we could to find a way to drive up to it but there were no roads. So we settled on the photo below of the town and the castle at the top of the hill in the background.

That night, we decided to eat at
La Cubana, an old restaurant that I had noticed next to the oldest foot bridge in Toledo. This turned out to be okay food but a marvelous experience. For the first hour we were the only customers and I started talking to the woman and learned that La Cubana was her husbands’ grandmother who had moved to Toledo from Andalucía in the early 1900’s and opened this restaurant that is still there. Everything around it was destroyed during the Spanish Civil War in the 1930’s but she labored on. Her son, this woman’s father in law took it over and then this woman and her husband have been running it for the last 33 years. There were lots of photos from the 1920’s with wooden carts with wooden wheels pulled by mules sitting in front of the restaurant.
I always tell Cathy that every person in the world has a story and I would love to be a writer that just goes around the world recording people’s stories. This was a great example. She was so excited to share the history with us and to show us their mementos. When we left she gave us two little gifts as memories of our meal there. It was really fun.
The next day I went back to take a photo of the restaurant as I did not have my camera with me at dinner. Unfortunately, right at the time I arrived, this gigantic sewer truck pulled up in front of La Cubana and began sucking the sewage out of the ground (it must have been a septic tank) with this giant hose. It wasn’t the kind of thing I wanted to hang around and watch so I took a photo of the old bridge in front of it with the sign for the restaurant. I figured that was close enough. But if you click
HERE you can see their website with better photos.

On Friday we drove to Madrid, checked into the hotel and had three sort of weird things happen. The first was a message from Neil Parekh from Mumbai confirming that he is going to meet us on Saturday here in Madrid after I just spent a week with him in the last month in India.
Then, I went to get a haircut. I probably know 10 people of the 5 million or so that live in Madrid. I walked into this random salon and heard someone say “Grover”. It was Natalia Frutos who came up and gave me a big hug. She happened to be in the salon getting her hair done. What she didn’t know was that I was planning on stopping and seeing her later in the day for some help she had given me.
Then, as I am walking along, someone in a car stopped and asked me (obviously in Spanish) if I knew were Orense Street was. I laughed and said that they were in luck-that I lived in Atlanta and could only tell someone where 5 or 6 streets in all of Madrid were, but Orense happened to be one of them. They could not believe it.
I will write later about how Luis is doing since we are here to celebrate his 85th birthday. In closing, although I am certain he misses me horribly, I understand Finn is doing fine without me. Here he was sleeping on a wonderful yellow blanket that his Great Aunt Judie made by hand for him. It is the softest blanket I have ever felt.